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Plastering is the procedure of covering rough walls and uneven finishes in the construction of houses and other buildings with a plastic material named plaster, which is a mixture of lime or cement solid and sand along with the required quantity of water. Plaster is a building substance used for the protective or decorative coating of walls and ceilings and molding and casting decorative materials. In English, "plaster" usually means things used for the interiors of buildings, while "render" usually refers to external applications. Another vague term used for the material is stucco, which is also often used for plasterwork that is worked in anyways to produce relief decoration rather than flat surfaces.

Skimming Plastering

Skimming is a plastering technique that involves applying a thin coat to walls to create the smooth cover required for painting. Either the skim plaster is registered to an existing plaster finish or used to cover the plasterboard. The 'perfect skimmed surface' isn't easy to achieve; it requires a trained professional with years of experience as a plasterer. Traditional plastering is a vast and complex process involving three layers of plaster, all of which need time to dry before the next coat is applied. As deadlines have gotten tighter and time has become more valuable, plastering has adapted to meet new assumptions. With only one layer of skim plaster to register, the plasterer's job can now be carried out in a fragment of the time once needed.

Wall Plaster Floating & Ceiling

Floating plaster is a critical process to get right to ensure that you get perfectly flat walls. There are many various types of plastering float available. They are made out of a range of other materials, including plastic, wood, or sponge. These are all purpose-built to float on plaster – much of it depends on personal preference. A float is often used to ensure a ceiling is as plain as possible. If plastering a whole room, do the top before the walls in case of any dribbles. Ceiling plaster should be more delicate than on the walls – about 3mm for the first coat and 1.5mm for the second. A damp sponge float will help stop the plaster from drying out too quickly, which tends to be the biggest problem with ceilings.

Coving Services

Coving fitters is one of the services we can provide to decorate your property. Decorative coving is famous and known for giving that unique look to your room ceilings. We offer installation for our plaster coving, plaster cornices, ceiling roses, dados, and any architectural plaster moldings we sell. For homes or on commercial scales like in the hotels, libraries, schools, and more. We all know that plaster coving products are used to enhance the interior plaster walls and ceilings and can also be utilized to enhance the beauty of the exteriors of the building. However, substantial plaster choices of coving are available and can be problematic for many not-skilled tradespeople.


Rendering is the procedure of applying cement mixture to external, or sometimes internal, walls to achieve a smooth or textured surface. It is similar in technique to plastering. Render has waterproofing and fire rating qualities but is also used for aesthetic purposes. It is widespread in countries across Europe, particularly around the Mediterranean. The main components of renders are cement, sand, lime, and water. A typical mix ratio used for rendering is six parts sand, 1 part cement, and 1 part lime. Any general-purpose adhesive can be used, even though the sand should be fine and clean of uncleanliness. Coarser sand is typically used as the base coat and slightly finer sand for the top layer. The main contrast between the two practices is that plastering refers to coating the interior walls while rendering coating exterior walls.

Pebble Dashing

Pebble dashing is a type of wall covering typically used on exterior walls. It consists of two lime and sand "base" coats into which pebbles are tossed and pressed. The result is a wall shielded in tiny, smooth stones. Pebble dashing is considered an art by some masons who may mix their unique blend of base coats. Pebble dashing is an ancient Roman process of covering or finishing a wall (usually an exterior wall). Lime and cement are mixed with small objects, such as sand, shells, or, of course, pebbles. A pebble-dashed wall can be aesthetically pleasing and is an accessible DIY project. Some people meticulously apply their stones, which is probably more feasible if pebble dashing only a tiny area. However, throwing them provides a carefree, organic, and rustic aspect that many people find attractive.

Plaster Board

A plasterboard is a panel built of calcium sulfate dihydrate (gypsum), usually forced between a facer and a backer. It is used to construct interior walls and ceilings. This 'Drywall' erection became famous as a quicker alternative to standard lath and plaster. Plasterboard is used to help laborers and designers meet building regulations for fire protection, phonic insulation, and thermal efficiency. It can also help to check condensation and potential damage in areas of high humidity. The primary use of plasterboard is to create partitions, wall lining, or ceilings in any building, varying from hospitals and schools to shops and domestic belongings. Newer, more innovative plasterboards can also be applied for external sheathing purposes. There are many benefits of working with plasterboard. Firstly, it provides a smooth surface to decorate. Secondly, it is feathery and easy to install and can create features such as curved walls. It can also be used as a simple solution to meet Building Regulations for fire, acoustic, moisture, and thermal performance.

Dot & Dabbing

The dot and dab plasterboard method is also known as drylining and involves directly bonding plasterboard to flat and secure walls with a key, such as a masonry and blockwork. 'Dot and dab' refers to how the plasterboard adhesive is applied in evenly spaced dots and dabs across the wall's surface. Dot and dab are famous because it's easier, quicker, and less messy than process such as wet plastering. It also means you can complete and decorate walls straight away. Dot and dab sticking takes between three and five hours to set, which means you could carry out skimming the same day. Also, plaster takes two to three days to dry.

Plaster Patch Repair

Plaster repairs are an occasional requirement if you own old home. These old plastered walls provide so much character to a period home, but to keep them in excellent condition, it's essential to be on the lookout for early signs of damage. Plaster repair is usually within the abilities of a competent DIYer. So if you are decorating an old home, spotting the signs and knowing the ingredients is essential. And if you find that the impairment needs repair beyond your skills, it is still necessary to understand what is required. Original plaster completes on internal walls and ceilings are worth treating with care. Unlike the smooth, lifeless, and hard cementitious and gypsum plasters common today, old dressings tend to have an undulating textural quality, offer flexibility, and, most importantly, allow the wall to breathe, enabling moisture to disperse. Therefore, maintaining these qualities is an essential part of a well-managed house renovation.


Refurbishment Plaster provides a durable plaster for damp and salt-contaminated masonry. It is used with other Vandex products to refurbish basements, vaults, and other old structures. Because of its lime content, Vandex Refurbishment Plaster is ideally suited to plaster refurbishment in old buildings. It is equally suitable for use in damp areas in both new and existing structures. Refurbishment Plaster is usually applied by trowel. However, spray application is possible when large areas are to be covered.

Ceiling Repair

Cracks appear in drywall and plaster for several reasons, from standard house settling to faulty artistry, roof truss boost, or water leaks. While repairing fragile walls is pretty straightforward, it's a bit more complicated with ceilings, which typically have some texture applied and are overhead, making the repairs a (literal) pain in the neck. Sometimes, the reason for a ceiling crack is evident, such as visible water stains on the ceiling, which indicates a leak caused the joint compound to soften and crack. A delicate spider web of hairline cracks often results from applying joint compound too thickly, which results in shrinkage and the development of shots as they dry. Before tackling this ceiling repair, correct the cause of the cracks, such as fixing leaks to prevent crashes from recurring.

Crack Filling

While the phrases crack filling and crack sealing are often utilized interchangeably, there are differences between these processes of pavement crack repair. Understanding these contrasts will help you make the most cost-effective and long-lasting solution for crack treatment of your asphalt surfaces. Crack filling is the placement of asphalt alloy into non-working cracks to reduce water infiltration and reinforce the adjacent pavement.

  • Non-working cracks are horizontal and vertical movements in the crack less than 0.1 inches.
  • Examples of non-working cracks include longitudinal, diagonal, and alligator cracks.
  • In contrast, to crack sealing, crack filling treats pavement that doesn't show significant movement.

Hair Lines Filling Walls and Ceilings

those cracks that are observable on plastered/ painted surface near the two different materials meeting points like as you mentioned near electric board etc. are common, but the middle of the wall is not typical until there is any running line for electrical or plumbing line/ conduit. The remedial actions can be

  • 1. Make a 'v shape' groove about 12 mm deep and do the feeling with POP. Apply putty and paint it.
  • 2. Remove the plaster up to brick/block surface of about 3-inch width and then use chicken mesh lay over the conduit and at junctions areas and replaster the surface use POP for better results.
  • 3. Use cracks filler material ( it's available in paste form in 1kg etc. packaging. Apply it after making a grove of about 5–8 mm and remove all loose particles and dust. Apply POP and paint the surface.

Skim Over Artex

Plastering over Artex is a ubiquitous part of our trade now. Any horror stories heard must originate from cowboy plasterers! Any artex must have a backing (bonding) coat applied first as the skim coat is only 3 mm thick. Once the bonding coat is dry, you use PVA to reduce suction when skimming the topcoat. There are three options for doing away with Artex if you know it's asbestos-free:

  • 1. Remove the Artex. This is, doubtlessly, the most expensive option as Artex is tough to shift.
  • 2. Scrape and Skim. If you have whirls rather than dimples, it may be possible to darg off the patterning to leave a smooth finish. This can then be layered with PVA and covered up with a skim coat of plaster.
  • 3. False Ceiling. Dimpled or stippled Artex can be covered over with a false ceiling made of dry lining plasterboard. You end up with a plain surface to work with, but your ceiling height is slightly lower.

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